As a seasoned lash artist with over eight years of experience in the industry, I have heard the phrase, “I’m allergic to eyelash extensions” many times. Believe it or not, there is always more to this story, and while there are cases where a client does develop an allergy to our adhesive, it is rare. Here are alternative things that could be happening, how to prevent them, and what to do if an actual allergic reaction to eyelash extension adhesive does arise. I hope you find it helpful!

Understanding the Difference Between a Sensitivity and Allergic Reaction

Many people will confuse a sensitivity with an allergic reaction because of the itchy feeling at the lash line. The main thing that sets the two apart is swelling. With a sensitivity, whether it be seasonal allergies or another irritant that is present, there won’t be any swelling present, but there may be redness. It’s important to understand the difference as an artist so you can know what to tell your client in order to help them. Furthermore, removing eyelash extensions right away on someone who has had an allergic reaction to the adhesive can result in extending the reaction time period and causing additional discomfort.

What Can Cause Sensitivites With Eyelash Extensions?

Many things can cause irritation that can create a sensitivity to eyelash extensions. One very important thing to remember during the application is that the client’s eyes must be closed completely. The tape or gel pad beneath the client’s eye must also never come into contact with the eyeball, as this can result in a corneal abrasion that could cause redness and soreness to the eyeball itself.

Some people have eyes that naturally can’t be closed completely. This usually happens with just one eye. As we know, the eyes must remain closed throughout the service for the most comfortable experience. If this issue occurs, don’t be afraid to tape down the upper eyelid to make sure it closes completely. Work in sections and be sure to use tape that has been de-tacked so it does not stick to the lash extensions as you’re working.
If the client is very expressive and talks with their eyes, it’s best to conduct a quiet appointment for their comfort. Most clients will be understanding when it’s explained to them why this is best.
Any opening or fluttering in the eye will allow fumes to enter the eye creating a burning sensation, which can cause the eye to water. If you are an artist that works with eyepads, the gel inside those can swell, touch the eye, and cause irritation or sensitivity.
If after your service the client’s eyes are red, this could be from the above, or it could also be that the tape or pad beneath was placed too close to their client’s eye.
Another thing that can cause irritation at the lashline is poor isolation, meaning that more than one natural lash is stuck to another, or the eyelash extension itself. This causes a pulling sensation that will feel itchy and uncomfortable for the client. Be sure to check for those stickies throughout and at the end of every service!
Remind your contact lens wearing clients to remove them prior to the service, as that can contribute to their sensitivity as well by over drying the eye. As we know, our cyanoacrylate based adhesives pull moisture from surrounding areas to cure itself, and their contact lenses will be dry after their service, which can result in irritation.

A sensitivity can cause itchiness and redness to the eyeball itself, but there will be no swelling at the lash line present. It is usually caused by lack of preventative measures on the artist’s behalf, and can be fixed easily, allowing your clients to continue to enjoy wearing their lashes.

Sensitvity will be indicated by redness of the eye itself

How to Tell if Your Client is Allergic to Eyelash Extension Adhesive

Like we mentioned before, the main sign of an allergy to an ingredient in the adhesive will be swelling paired with redness at the lash line. This allergy could be to one or both of the following things:

Carbon black
For our black adhesive lovin’ artists, keep in mind that while it can be a versatile adhesive that is sometimes necessary in humid climates, the carbon black which darkens the adhesive can be an irritant to some clients. If a slight reaction occurs for your client, try a clear adhesive at their next appointment. Many clients tend to do a lot better with these types of adhesives.
Cyanoacrylate itself
If your client experiences an allergic reaction that includes redness and swelling after using a clear adhesive, it’s probably best if they take a break.Cyanoacrylate is the base for pretty much all eyelash extension adhesives, so if they are allergic to this chemical, chances are they will not be able to wear extensions. Adhesives labeled as “sensitive” adhesives are typically just diluted black adhesive which ultimately will have less retention time, take longer to dry, and still will probably result in your client having an allergic reaction to it.

Keep in mind that some clients develop temporary allergies to these ingredients and may just need a break. In most cases, though, once an allergic reaction occurs, the symptoms will continue to worsen with each exposure, sometimes resulting in a trip to the emergency room because their eyes are swollen shut.

An allergic reaction will have redness and swelling at the lash line

What to Do if Your Client Has an Allergic Reaction

If your client shows signs of an allergic reaction to the adhesive, you might think that a removal is necessary. Keep in mind that most removal products on the market can reactivate the adhesive and can make symptoms worse. If the client can take an over the counter allergy pill and allow the swelling to subside, they might want to wear them until they shed naturally to avoid this from happening. If a removal is necessary, have them take their allergy pill prior to coming in for the removal and always wait until swelling has subsided prior to removing the extensions to avoid further symptoms. Keep in mind that we are not doctors, and if the allergic reaction is severe, it is best to recommend your client see their doctor or heada to the emergency room. It is not within our scope of practice to diagnose or attempt to treat allergic reactions.

Can Clients Who Have Experienced an Allergic Reaction Ever Wear Eyelash Extensions Again?

As we age and our hormones change, there is a chance that we are able to tolerate ingredients that we had been allergic to before. On the flip side, we may develop allergies to things that we never had issues with before. I have seen in a few (rare) cases that sometimes after a long break, clients are able to wear eyelash extensions with no issues. If a client has had a reaction in the past and wants to try them again after a long break, the best course of action to take is to conduct a patch test using a clear adhesive. Simply place a few classic extensions on the outer corner of each eye and allow the client to wear them for 24 hours. If they do not have a reaction within that time frame, you can try again and just understand that a reaction could occur somewhere down the line. It is important as their artist to communicate realistic expectations so they understand that if they have had a reaction in the past, chances are they will experience it again. As long as you are up front and communicative with your client, there is no harm in trying again.

How to Mitigate Chances of An Allergic Reaction to the Best of Your Ability

Once you live with eyelash extensions, it’s hard to imagine life without them again. If a client who has had a reaction previously wants to try again, there are a few things you can do to make the process as successful as possible.

Patch test
As mentioned previously, always conduct a patch test prior to their full set to verify that you are safe to proceed with the appointment.
Cleansing
Make sure that the eyes are very clean prior to application by cleansing the eye area or having the client cleanse before you begin the application process. Cleansing directly after application is a great method to try as well, as it will mitigate any residual fumes and can help alleviate symptoms. If you are going to try this, make sure that the eyelash extensions adhesive is completely dry before cleansing their fresh lashes.
Allergy Pills
Have your client take an allergy pill the night before or the morning of their appointment, and again the next day. This will, if nothing else, alleviate symptoms due to seasonal allergies that can contribute to a full blown reaction to the adhesive
Being extra cautious
It is always important to check for stickies and avoid having the eyelash adhesive ever coming into contact with the client’s eyelid, but especially in this situation. Eyelash extension adhesive should never touch your client’s skin, even if it is technically “safe for skin”.

Ultimately, as your clients’ lash artist, it is your job to inform them on the possible side effects they may experience in the event of an allergic reaction. It is also your job to refuse a service to someone who has had extensive allergic reactions in the past and tried multiple times. Make sure tht whether you work for yourself or in a salon, you have a current personal liability policy that covers you in case of an emergency. Always protect yourself and educate your clients to the best of your ability on these topics so you can enjoy a long and happy lashing career.

We hope you enjoyed this read composed by Lanna of Bold Beauty Company. See you next time!