Lash adhesives have come a long way since the industry has grown tremendously over the last 15 years. Very few were available at first, and all seemed to be incredibly fume-y and very strong with retention that was nothing to write home about. Because of advancements in the industry, we now have access to different options as lash artists, that allow us to give clients a custom experience that is comfortable and safe. There are many myths about eyelash extension adhesives, and it’s time that we break through some of those to get to the root of understanding the products that we are using on a daily basis. Whether you are a new lash artist or have many years in the field, keep reading to learn all about adhesives and how, if we choose the right one, it can do a lot of the work FOR you while you lash.
Lash Adhesive Types
There are 3 types of eyelash extension adhesives available on the market currently. The first is the one we started with, and the one that many still love- black adhesive. The next came about a few years later and is the holy grail for experienced artists- clear adhesive. The third is one that deserves some conversation around because it is not widely used, nor should it be- sensitive adhesive.
Environmental Factors
One big factor in the way that our lash adhesives cure is their relative environment. This includes how/ where the bottle of adhesive is stored, and also the temperature and relative humidity of your lashing space. Ideally, temperatures in your room or studio should be kept between about 72 and 77 degrees while you are lashing for best results. In storing your adhesive, there are many modern day solutions to keep it fresh for longer than the original 4 weeks. Be sure you are storing your opened bottle of adhesive upright with the cap screwed on tightly. The use of air tight jars and silica beads come in clutch for this purpose- and you can find them through many different lash supply companies. Next, we’ll touch upon humidity individually, as it is a huge factor in the dry time of adhesives.
Dry Time and Curing Process
Once you have a basic understanding of how the main ingredient in lash adhesives, cyanoacrylate, completes its hardening phase - a process called “curing”, a lot will click for you in the art of lashing. Cyanoacrylate cures when introduced to moisture. Because there are not many sources of water nearby, the cyanoacrylate pulls moisture from the nearby air to help itself cure. This is why your relative humidity (RH) is a big factor in the dry time of your adhesive. Thicker, more viscous adhesives (black adhesives) take longer to cure because they are more dense, which adds layers that have to be cured with the surrounding moisture. Because of this, they need a higher RH level in the environment to cure at its ideal speed. Clear adhesives are thinner in texture because they are absent of some extra ingredients found in the black adhesives, so they need a lower RH level to optimally cure, and will take longer to cure in higher humidity environments. If you haven’t already, get yourself a little hygrometer to place on your work station so you can gauge the RH and temp in your space, and adjust if needed. Dehumidifiers and humidifiers are great tools to help your environment reach the ideal RH for your adhesive type and desired curing speed.
Lash Types
Another factor when choosing the right lash adhesive is hair type. We see clients from all walks of life, with different genetics, and those are things that factor in to what kind of lashes your client will have. Younger clients who are still full of collagen have thicker, fuller lash lines naturally. As we age and our skin cell and hair growth cycles slow down, it is normal to have less hair in general, so this applies to your more mature clients- some experience more lash loss than others, but typically natural lashes on older clients tend to be more thin and sparse than on younger clients. Ethnicity is another factor because that will also determine hair type. Clients who have thicker, more coarse hair texture will also have thicker, sometimes naturally greasier, lashes. Those with thin, fine hair will have thinner lash texture. Sometimes, a thicker lash adhesive is needed for clients who have thicker, more oily natural lashes to be able to effectively penetrate the outer layer of the lash for ideal attachment. The opposite is true as well, the thinner natural lashes will do better with a thinner viscosity of adhesive.
“Sensitive” Adhesives and Their Downsides
Sensitive lash adhesives tend to unfortunately be a waste of money and effort on your behalf as an artist. They are oftentimes very expensive, and essentially all you are paying for is diluted black adhesive. These adhesives contain a less potent percentage of the same ingredients found in black adhesives. Because of this, the retention time is not as long as an adhesive with normal percentages of the active ingredients. It also tends to be thinner in viscosity, taking longer to cure, which can slow you down as an artist. This, however, can be a bonus if you are a beginner artist and need a longer dry time while you are practicing and trying to up your speed. For clients who develop a sensitivity to black adhesives, try switching them to a clear adhesive. Oftentimes, they are reacting to the carbon black additive in black adhesives and will do better with a clear formula. For those still reacting to clear adhesives, a break from having lashes done is smart before proceeding, and a patch test is recommended before applying a new set after a break. Sometimes, a change in hormones and stress levels can create a momentary sensitivity or reaction to cyanoacrylate, and after a break, some clients are fine to reintroduce the ingredient again without any issues.
Understanding your mediums as an artist is an essential key in being able to do your art with ease and create beautiful outcomes for your clients that wear well and cause no irritation. I hope this gave you some insight into adhesives and how they work, and boosts your confidence in your craft. Check out our tried and true adhesives, Clearvoyant and Nightshade. They are the staple to many lash artist’s arsenal of tools and at an affordable price, will hopefully become one of yours. Thanks for reading, see you next time!
